A Stranger, a Train and a Night at the Ice Hotel

If you have been weighing up a solo trip, read this one. Kelly, who writes at Girl with the Passport, went to northern Sweden alone in winter and came back with a friend. Her story is part of our Travellers' Tales series; if you have one of your own, send it to [email protected].

Kelly - Travellers Tale

Deciding to go was hard. I knew nobody in Sweden and would be alone the entire time, with no family or friends to spend the holidays with, and I was afraid of how lonely it might feel. But I needed to get away. I work full time and get little time off, so with a little residual guilt I booked the flight.

Once I landed I knew it was right. There were historic villages to wander and windmills to admire in the low, cool light of the setting sun. With so much culture around me I forgot to be lonely as I walked the cobbled streets of Old Town Stockholm. I was too busy eating my way through the city to notice I had no one beside me, until it was time to pack and board the train north.

Stockholm boats at night:Strandvagen boulevard.

Strandvägen, Stockholm. Picture: Europe Diaries, from our Stockholm photostory.

A town above the Arctic Circle

My destination was a tiny town just above the Arctic Circle, where the sun rose at 10 am and set at 3 pm. The brochures had dazzled me with reindeer moving across the frozen river, the sort of scene ecotourism sells so well. I was not going for the reindeer, lovely as they are. I wanted to see the largest Ice Hotel in the world.

Reindeer sledding in Northern Sweden winters.

The hotel had no rooms left. Rather than abandon the dream, I decided to go north anyway and take the public tour of the place.

Visiting the world's fIrst Ice Hotel in Northern Sweden in winter

The platform

That is how I came to be standing on a freezing outdoor platform waiting for an extremely late train. Around me were families and friends, talking happily about the trip ahead, and all of them had someone to share it with. I looked at the empty space beside me and felt my heart drop.

Then I noticed a woman in animated conversation with a family. I assumed they were together. As I watched, it became clear she was travelling alone too.

I am a social creature, so I drifted over and started talking about coffee, which in my view is the nectar of the gods and the one thing I would happily take by drip. We bonded over caffeine and then discovered we were both originally from New York.

The train arrived. I expected the usual ending to a casual conversation, a goodbye and separate carriages. Instead Danielle asked where I was staying. I told her the sorry tale of the Ice Hotel and the missing room.

A room, offered

Then she asked me to share her room at the Ice Hotel. I hesitated; spending a night with someone I barely knew is not nothing. But the adventure won, and I said yes.

Beautiful destinations: Northern Sweden.

I am grateful I did. We explored the Arctic together and survived a night in the Ice Hotel, and who else would have zipped my sleeping bag in complete darkness so that I did not freeze? Beyond the practical help, Danielle was the cure for that moment of holiday loneliness. Instead of sitting with the feeling, we giggled the night away and talked about the men we wished we could take home as souvenirs.

What stayed with me

I now have a travel buddy in Miami, who has already asked me to visit and to travel with her again. That kind of friendship is priceless, because not all of my friends organise their lives around travel. I will always be grateful to Danielle for her kind heart and her endless appetite for adventure.

About the author: Kelly Duhigg lives in New York City and works full time as a nanny. When she is not working she is building Girl with the Passport, a travel blog meant to inspire others to follow their hearts and chase their dreams. Find her on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or Pinterest.

Thanks to Kelly for sharing her Traveller's Tale. We want to hear your stories too: send an idea or a post to [email protected], or share a photo story on Instagram with #shareTravellersTales.


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13 Comments
  • Aww wow Sweden is somewhere I’d love to visit – I’m much more a fan of cooler weather than warm!

    August 21, 2017at6:59 pm
  • Abhi
    Reply

    Love it! Fantastic. I’m very interested in this sort of thing and have been wanting to try toys myself for a while now. I am now very much inspired

    August 17, 2017at5:11 am
  • wow, what a great adventure trip you had! Wish i could donthis one day!

    June 11, 2017at10:27 pm
  • I was sad for you when you said the ice hotel was booked, and then cheered when you met your new friend! Solo travel can be lonely at times, but it can also be amazing when you stumble upon new friendships and opportunities!

    June 11, 2017at2:19 pm
  • I have always wanted to go to Sweden. It is amazing that you packed up and went alone even though you knew it would be tough. So brave of you. I love that you made a friend and it was the best part of the whole trip

    June 10, 2017at6:02 am
  • What a great story! And, an amazing connection made. 🙂 I did my first solo holiday travel this past Christmas, and while I didn’t share an Ice Hotel with her, I did meet a fellow-solo-female-traveller-new-friend, too! 😉

    June 10, 2017at4:12 am
  • SHASHIDHAR
    Reply

    A friend in need is friend in deed. You are so blessed to see the best of the places on the earth. Hats off to your passion & courage.
    Your block takes me along with you. All the best to you & hope to see & meet you when you visit Bangalore.

    June 10, 2017at12:49 am
  • I agree that this type of friendship is really a special one. I loved reading about this tale, so moving and aspiring to go towards others and make friends!

    June 10, 2017at12:32 am
  • Thanks so much for letting me share my story. The article looks amazing. You did a great job.

    June 10, 2017at12:17 am
  • ovely photos, brought back memories. I was in Finland & Norway (Tromso) on March. This was an awesome journey ! I have experience breath-taking views of majestic mountains rising directly from the sea in narrow fjords 🙂 . And I have found the Northern Lights are both mystical and magical. You don’t know when this natural phenomenon will appear, but when it does it’s simply take your breath away. The colours and shapes change and move, like a giant and ever changing work of art in an otherwise dark sky… such an amazing moment !

    June 9, 2017at9:01 pm
  • Love your ability to just put yourself out there! I have made small trips by myself but nothing like yours. You are inspiring!

    June 9, 2017at1:51 pm

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